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 Post subject: alternator overcharging
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 9:38 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:37 pm
Posts: 23
Hi everyone,i need some advice.A couple of weeks ago i decided to fit a charging light on the dash of my rf900,and it immediately showed it was over charging.So on with a voltmeter and without lights on its reading 14.7,lights on full 15.1,side lights 14.8.Ive had the bike for 18mnths and never blown a bulb or fried the battery.The alternator was removed and taken to an alternator firm to be checked and they said its the regulator but couldnt find one to fit,so i bought a new one from M&P and they fitted it.The bearings were fine.Put the bike back together and its exactly the same,overcharging,but the battery was checked and showed up to be weak.After fitting a brand new battery from Suzuki (this is getting expensive),the voltage reading wasnt quite as high but still not 14.2 which it should be,so i would like to know who can rewind my alternator,Electrex world dont list it,and are all the alternators the same for the rf,or are there 2 types according to which coupling is on the bike.My rf is a 1999 rw,presumeably with the later coupling,and its only done 20500mls.Any advice would be greatly appreciated cheers Graham. :think:


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 10:50 am 
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The Bandit Killer
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Location: Nr Dover, Kent.
HI.

I'd suggest you repost this or get the ADMINS to move this to technical section where people are more likely to see it and give you a heads up.



OW

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 11:16 am 
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Exhaust Technician
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Location: Attleborough, Norfolk
Hi Graham sorry to hear of your troubles. Can’t really help usually it’s under charging due to the rubber coupling on your models going bad.

Those readings don’t sound abnormally high? Is it causing you issues other than you now “knowing” it’s overcharging from your recent gadget install?

What I’m alluding to is are you chasing after a issue that isn’t actually a issue?

Either way someone more technical will be along shortly to help. Keep us updated as is a interesting question

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 11:16 am 
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Location: East Weymss, Fife, Scotland, Third rock from the Sun, The Milky Way, The Universe...
Good call OW.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:07 pm 
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Location: Costa del London
right graham.

i am not the most technical on here by a long mf way... :laughing-rolling:



but our old resident Doc Emmett from BTTF.
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may have left us but did leave in the TECHNICAL board of the forum
The SHED.
a cornucopia of electric knowledge and wealth.

(sadly photofuku bollixed up the post pics....BUT
you can still read up on many topics.)

Fasty's post say... :ugeek:
Quote:
Charge the battery or if possible jump start the bike off a car. With the engine running put a meter across the battery terminals, set to 20V DC. You should see around 12.5V with the engine running, rising to around 14.5 V at 5000 RPM.


post is HERE
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=19190

The alternators MUST be matching set.
Green with the SOLID coupling..

Quote:
We've come to refer to the different types of alternator and drive by the parts label on the alternator itself. The 'early' type with the solid drive has a Green label while the later rubber coupling drive type has a Black label.

Note that you can't fit a Green label alternator into a rubber coupling or a Black label alternator into a solid coupling - while the physical dimensions of the unit are the same the shafts are different




i did start to consider saving the pics just for the SHED, so let me have a hunt through my Gdrive and if i can find any i'll try and insert into shed as per fastys pics.. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

hope some of that helps.. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 7:25 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:37 pm
Posts: 23
Thanks Mike and Jazz for your replies.You may be right Mike in that im probably worrying too much about this since i fitted the charging light,i only fitted it so that if the coupling ever went the light would turn from green to red and stay red.Today i went to see a mate of mine who has half a dozen "old" Japanese multis,and he told me he has a gsxSuzuki which always showed overcharging i.e.15+volts,and the bike has done 90000mls without frying the battery.Hes quite a knowledgable bloke and said that a reading of 14.7 to 15.1volts aint gonna harm anything,so im going to forget about it.Thanks again fellas anyway. :-bd:


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 7:41 pm 
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Good news graham...

Then our work here is done.. :-bd:
( at least until the next members needs help or advice )

Me and mike are going to pop in for a quick one in the club bar, welcome to join us, if ya got time.. :D


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 8:23 pm 
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Good result but sorry you got done out of money. You can convert rubber coupling type to early solid state type of its that much of a concern.

Nice one jaz I’ve already had a jar tonight after a rubbish work day I’ll see you there :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 8:32 pm 
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Good to see theyve done up the cock and butt. At least it isnt a gastro pub anymore.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 9:31 pm 
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mike-rf600r wrote:
Good result but sorry you got done out of money. You can convert rubber coupling type to early solid state type of its that much of a concern.


have to be honest, for me the rads my real concern about keeping the bike long term..
(that and the ulez, which the rf fails on... :evil:,,so come 2021/22 depending on what rules they apply,
the bike might have to go.. :angry-cussingblack: ). )

But IF i had the later bikes, (and alternator coupling does seem to be the rf's real achilles heel
i'd be looking online for the old style (green) set up and be ready to swap over the lot,
rather then just replace the Black type, if i was me keeping it longer term... 8-)

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