RF OWNERS CLUB

Still some good radiators secondhand no need to worry always a expensive recore if needed. Alternator shouldn’t be a concern for you with a early bike like me and BA.

I've almost finished my "conversion to solid drive after rubber coupling failure", and once I'm sure it's successful I'll add some notes to the thread I started when it failed. In case it helps, I'd like to say there's scope for some confusion in referring to the different alternator types simply as "Black label" or "Green label" - if you are buying one, and there are usually a few on eBay, with very variable condition and prices, it's important to confirm the part number on the label (not always obvious in photos).

https://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/shop ... alternator

It seems the earliest (solid drive) models had the 31400-17E02 which has the longer shaft (fits solid drive on starter clutch shaft) and that version has a Black label... then the part number changed to 31400-17E20 with a Green label (note that only the order of the last two digits is different). The Robinson's site confusingly says that the E20 is the older model, but the important thing is that the late RFs with rubber coupling have the 31400-17E30 alternator with a shorter shaft which again has a Black label! As far as I can tell, only the rotor/shaft unit varies - the longer splined end on E02 and E20 fit the solid coupling. As it's a relatively easy unit to rebuild, there may well be hybrid units out there too - I could in theory have rebuilt my black label E30 with a longer rotor shaft (there was a brand new one on eBay for around £50), but I chose to buy a cheap old E02 (also black label) with the longer shaft, and to refurbish it (one new bearing, general clean-up). I'm soon to see if it works, and I hope to get more voltage than I did with the broken rubber coupling - aiming for more than 13.5 V (what the manual says you should see, as minimum, with engine running) and not too much more than 14.5V.

I had been thinking of a cheap charging light to monitor this when on the go, but I worry about inaccuracy, so perhaps I'll splash out around £30 on one of these. Has anyone done this?

https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/artikel/ko ... t/10034905

(may be available elsewhere, but this is best price I can see and my son is in Germany right now and might be able to pick one up for me)

There are cheaper voltmeters on eBay, some even with USB ports included, etc., but I am suspicious of quality and weather resistance; Koso looks like a respectable brand for electronic instruments.

Quick update - the engine starts and seems to run fine so far after my alternator replacement, and at fast tickover the voltage rises to 14.6, then stops going up so I think my regulator is working fine. The bench test for the regulator shown in the manual says 14.5V, so this is good enough for me.

Happy days well done that man

grahamfirestorm wrote:Hi everyone,i need some advice.A couple of weeks ago i decided to fit a charging light on the dash of my rf900,and it immediately showed it was over charging.So on with a voltmeter and without lights on its reading 14.7,lights on full 15.1,side lights 14.8.Ive had the bike for 18mnths and never blown a bulb or fried the battery.The alternator was removed and taken to an alternator firm to be checked and they said its the regulator but couldnt find one to fit,so i bought a new one from M&P and they fitted it.The bearings were fine.Put the bike back together and its exactly the same,overcharging,but the battery was checked and showed up to be weak.After fitting a brand new battery from Suzuki (this is getting expensive),the voltage reading wasnt quite as high but still not 14.2 which it should be,so i would like to know who can rewind my alternator,Electrex world dont list it,and are all the alternators the same for the rf,or are there 2 types according to which coupling is on the bike.My rf is a 1999 rw,presumeably with the later coupling,and its only done 20500mls.Any advice would be greatly appreciated cheers Graham.

The Alternator pumping out 15.1 volts is a bit on the high side but both mine sit/sat at 14.7 volts without lights.
As your new battery has lowered the volts to the norm I wouldn't worry about it.
Having the charging light on your bike will tell you when your coupling has failed so it will give you an opportunity to turn around and head for home.

The alternators are usually house brick reliable it is the rubber couplings that fail (it's their job. They protect alternator/engine from seize ups.)

A properly fitted replacement coupling will last another 25k to 30k miles so I shouldn't worry about changing alternators unless a sprag clutch and alternator off an earlier model comes up cheap.

If you are handy with a spanner then the coupling change isn't too difficult.

Thanks guys for the helpful info.Can anyone tell me which petrol pipe from the tank goes to the 2 top pipes of the tap,as i might have them crossed.Im having to turn tap on to reserve with plenty of fuel in,and before the light comes on,something that never happened before removing the tank to extract the alternator and replacing the petrol pipes with new ones.Im sure ive got the pipe from the pump to the bottom pipe of the tap,cheers.

Yep, sounds like you have crossed fuel pipes.
This is how the pipes attach:





There is a proper description in the manual.
If you want a good copy then see my signature below.

Cheers Ollie your a star

Hi all,checked the new fuel pipes and i had put them on correctly,but the "on" pipe i had put on was a bit too long and had a crease in it restricting flow,all is well now.Incidentally,do rf900s have a vibration phase at around 5-6000 revs.

grahamfirestorm wrote:do rf900s have a vibration phase at around 5-6000 revs.

Virtually every 4 cyl 4 stroke Suzuki has vibes at 5k usually its felt through the right footrest & if you have ally footrests its worse, there is usually some through the bars too, some race cans seem to make it worse & some don't

Ah cheers slim,just what a few of my mates have said,it does go if you rev through it but then its going so damn fast since ive geared it higher lol

not sure but if you don't have one fitted, an ignition advancer does give some benefits..

copied from laziness from an older incarnation of the forum

http://rf-owners.forums-free.com/igniti ... -t248.html

I think mike /suzuiki goof set a little run of the advancers...sub £50 if i recall.
yep, here is link..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-RF900 ... 3fa676b763

Does what the lads in the link say it does..

Heavier bar ends will help reduce vibes to hands , worth checking the rubbers on the top yoke too. rubber washers behind rearsets will help with the feet vibes. As Slim says stock pegs are best too.

Also +1 on jaz’s comment. The ignition advancer is a worthy addition. I’d recommend to anyone.

Cheers lads i may try the ignition advancer,but i had a TRE on my busa and i didnt like the fuelling at low revs so i took it off

grahamfirestorm wrote:Cheers lads i may try the ignition advancer,but i had a TRE on my busa and i didnt like the fuelling at low revs so i took it off

RF ignition advancer just makes bike more but more eager and bit more torquey. All helps

If you ever have the spare cash it’s worth a try. Or try ride someone else’s with one fitted before you buy.

Thanks Mike,ive also noticed on my bike the chain tension makes quite a difference too.I used to have it set at 35mm,but its far smoother at 25-27 mm,

I do know what you mean actually about the chain. Mine was worse when sprockets were worn. You changed yours lately?

Just done mine and chain few months ago and it’s lovley hardly ever needs adjusting now and I’m trying to make sure I take better care of it.

I set mine at 30mm on the sidestand, when I sit on the bike, there is about 15mm of slack, if I let the chain get to 35mm + the gear changes become a bit clonky

I put a new chain and sprockets on recently with an alloy rear renthal, changed my mind and changed it back to a steel JT sprocket before riding it, thought I'd try some longevity testing

The jt sprocket is 43t, I had a 45t renthal alloy on the rear before, I think I liked the shorter gearing of the 45t, but if I change back to a 45t now, will I be interfering with chain and sprocket wear too much, probably not, because it's a rear large sprocket, it's not even done 500 miles at the moment.

Yes i changed the chain and sprockets at the beginning of summer,and put a 3 teeth smaller rear on,which is great for fast cruising at 500 rpm less at 70mph,and she still has loads of torque for overtakes.I have just recently fitted a Loobman gravity fed chain oiler,which works and only cost £20.

Hi Mike,have you still got the Yoshi rs3 can?

grahamfirestorm wrote:Hi Mike,have you still got the Yoshi rs3 can?

Sold unfortunately mate to Eddie on here, Keep a eye out I get them from time to time, though old wobbler wants one so he has first refusal if/when I get another one.

Ok cheers mate :-bd:Any meets coming up before winter comes

Not sure if any more meets this year I’m afraid. Think last one was bit lack lustre. I must try harder to get to them. Keep eye on the events section if one going on will pop up there.